Doug Bihlmaier’s Vintage Collection Hits Auction Block on December 13

A significant vintage clothing auction will commence on December 13, 2023, featuring over 100 items from the collection of renowned vintage fashion expert Doug Bihlmaier. This sale marks a unique opportunity for collectors and fashion enthusiasts to acquire pieces from a figure who has shaped the landscape of men’s vintage fashion for decades.

Bihlmaier, 72, is celebrated for his role as a buyer of vintage clothing for Ralph Lauren for more than 40 years. He is often credited with influencing the aesthetic of Double RL, a notable Ralph Lauren spinoff brand that draws inspiration from Americana. His discerning eye for style has garnered him recognition as a style icon, particularly among younger generations on social media platforms.

The auction will be hosted by Cameron Steiner, a 32-year-old collector and friend of Bihlmaier, on his vintage and antiques website, Collectors Gene. The sale will include a diverse range of items, such as workwear, denim, boots, belts, jewelry, and hats, all of which reflect Bihlmaier’s extensive experience and unique aesthetic sensibility.

Over the years, Bihlmaier amassed thousands of garments and accessories for Ralph Lauren, alongside a personal collection that includes rare workwear, vintage flannels, and military gear. His closets are now overflowing, containing approximately 40 plastic tubs filled with these treasures. With Bihlmaier now consulting for Ralph Lauren and living a more relaxed lifestyle in East Hampton, New York, he has decided to part with some of his collection.

“I talked to a few close friends and said, ‘Man, I should sell some of this stuff’ — because of my ill-earned popularity on style websites,” he explained. In preparation for the auction, Bihlmaier meticulously curated his collection, selecting some of his rarest pieces, many of which feature oversized fits that are increasingly sought after in the vintage market.

Bihlmaier’s keen sense of style is recognized by peers and admirers alike. Steiner remarked, “Some people are born with a great eye. I think the Italians call it sprezzatura, this effortless cool chic. To me, that’s what Doug is. It’s the American workwear version of sprezzatura.”

Among the standout items is a vintage corduroy hunting jacket that Bihlmaier discovered on Portobello Road in London. Although the jacket was in disrepair, Bihlmaier saw its potential. After a friend restored it, he received numerous compliments whenever he wore it to work. That jacket will be listed at $1,200 in the upcoming sale.

Other items include 1980s vintage tweed jackets sourced from the London store Hackett, priced from $1,250 and up, alongside work shirts from the 1920s and 1930s starting at $550. A Double RL sweater from the early 1990s will be listed at $1,850. Despite the anticipated high prices, Bihlmaier remains uncertain about the market’s response. “Hopefully, it works,” he stated. “If it doesn’t work, it’ll go back in my closet.”

As the auction approaches, the fashion community eagerly awaits the chance to own a piece of Bihlmaier’s legacy, highlighting the enduring appeal of vintage clothing and the personal stories behind each item.